La Petite Ourse

Bid adieu to la galette! Inside the recently remodeled walls of this former crêperie, we now lunch under a cosmic ceiling where Charlotte (a former journalist for Les Inrocks who switched careers to become a sommelier) and Germain (ex-Le Pantruche) shine. The tasty treats coming out of his kitchen are equal parts locavore and galactic! On the blackboard menu the day we went, for €13.50 or €16.50: an impeccable potato salad with whelks and smoked mayo; tender squash gnocchi with red onions and petals of Mimolette cheese that melt in your mouth; transcendent caramelized pork loin served with celeriac purée and a damn good vinegary jus; mackerel fillets over a bed of homemade soba noodles, a buttery nage and strips of black radish with a peppery jolt; before an astonishing chocolate cream with crunchy cacao and salted caramel for dessert. The drink selection is as stellar as the rest: a red from the Domaine des Roches Neuves produced by Thierry Germain (€4.50 a glass), a white Glouglou from Caraguilhes (€3.50), a Crozes Hermitage from the Domaine des 4 Vents (€39 a bottle) or even a delicious raspberry-strawberry nectar from Meneau (€3.50 for 250 ml). Appetizer + main + dessert lunch option €16.50 and appetizer + main or main + dessert for €13.50. // Claire Rémy