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Such a mystery! (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 5/21/07 5:14 PM ET
I am starting to make This pattern for my DH and my upcoming cruise (I'm so EXCITED!!!!), and I was reading through the directions in preparation for cutting out the fabric later today. I am using a silk brocade for the front of the vest (nice THICK quality brocade from Thai Silk, not the thinner stuff), which is the part that needs to be interfaced. The back of the vest is a fairly thick bridal satin from Joann's, which doesn't need to be interfaced. What weight interfacing would you use on the brocade? I have a very light weight fusible interfacing that I was thinking would be fine, or I could get something with more body. I would think that because of the weight of the brocade I wouldn't need much weight behind it, but I wasn't sure I was correct. I have worked with brocade quite a bit in the past (I use it to make infant shoes), and I know that the reason I've used it was to help with the fraying that is inherant to brocade. I referred to my borrowed copy of Fabric Savvy, and it states French Fuse, Fuse-Knit, or Armo Weft for tailoring....and that means??? Any insight into the mysteries of interfacing would be much appreciated! My instinct would be to use something lightweight.
-- Edited on 5/21/07 5:20 PM --
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-- Edited on 5/21/07 5:20 PM --
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Christen
http://www.woobadoos.com
http://www.woobadoos.com
Posted on: 5/21/07 6:17 PM ET
Do you have some scraps of fabric and interfacing that you could make some samples with? Armo Weft is heavier, usually used for jackets, fusi-knit is a knit tricot interfacing, and french fuse is a lighter weight.
If you're happy with the weight of the brocade as it is, I'd just maybe interface with something light (I like tricot interfacing a lot) just to help with ravelling.
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If you're happy with the weight of the brocade as it is, I'd just maybe interface with something light (I like tricot interfacing a lot) just to help with ravelling.
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Posted on: 5/21/07 7:04 PM ET
In reply to LauraTS
Thank you Laura, I was thinking it just needed a little help with the ravelling issue. I can't see any other reason I would need it because the fabric is so meaty on it's own. I'll try my light weight interfacing out and see how it goes.
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Christen
http://www.woobadoos.com
http://www.woobadoos.com
Posted on: 5/21/07 7:11 PM ET
In reply to Christen
I ran across this while looking online for some stretch interfacing:
The rule of thumb is that the interfacing should always be slightly lighter in weight than the fashion fabric.
Choosing between a fusible or a sew-in interfacing is really a matter of personal preference. In general, fusibles provide slightly crisper results. Because fusibles "set" the yarns, they’re an excellent choice for fabrics that fray. However, some fabrics do not react well to fusibles. Theses include metallics, beaded, sequined or re-embroidered fabrics, rayon and acetate velvets, most brocades, fake furs, leather, vinyl and openwork fabrics, such as lace and mesh.
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The rule of thumb is that the interfacing should always be slightly lighter in weight than the fashion fabric.
Choosing between a fusible or a sew-in interfacing is really a matter of personal preference. In general, fusibles provide slightly crisper results. Because fusibles "set" the yarns, they’re an excellent choice for fabrics that fray. However, some fabrics do not react well to fusibles. Theses include metallics, beaded, sequined or re-embroidered fabrics, rayon and acetate velvets, most brocades, fake furs, leather, vinyl and openwork fabrics, such as lace and mesh.
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Sewing is my therapy!
Posted on: 5/21/07 8:57 PM ET
Just another thing to consider: sometimes when you're using two different fabrics, you might need to compensate for the weight of one with more interfacing. For instance, if your brocade is very heavy, you might need to add a little bit of stabalization on the shoulders and back neckline to help support the weight.
Just something to think about :)
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Just something to think about :)
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-Marcia
http://pimpmysewingroom.blogspot.com/
http://pimpmysewingroom.blogspot.com/
Posted on: 5/23/07 9:59 AM ET
I read this article and have the answer for
myself, may be you want to take a look.
http://www.sew-whats-new.com/interfacing.shtml
myself, may be you want to take a look.
http://www.sew-whats-new.com/interfacing.shtml
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