Pane e Tempesta — one of the new wave of Roman pizzerias, emphasizing artisan flours, creative toppings, and long fermentation times — is located deep in the Gianicolense quarter, right in front of the public market. Built on a tangy, puffy crust made from stone-ground flour, a slice can have anything from amatriciana to celery to roasted fruits. Something different that’s worth trying: pizza made with farro flour, bringing a new definition to “whole wheat.”

What’s left to say about Pizzarium? The restaurant is feted by every media outlet and packed from open to close, often with a mob of tourists, for the good reason that the pizza really is special. Gabriele Bonci’s al taglio joint combines rigorous breadmaking — a long fermentation process (more time means better flavor) and obsessively sourced flour give the crust a robust, tender chew — with an expansive view toward toppings (think porchetta and friggitelli peppers, or artichoke, potato, and bottarga). Not exactly where the locals eat, but that probably wasn’t Bonci’s goal to begin with.

The pizzas at this cat-themed spot are a fusion of Roman and Neapolitan styles — thick and chewy, but crispy rather than floppy, and topped with traditional ingredients in combinations a more old-school joint might not have (think bufala mozzarella with spicy salami, pecorino, olives, and oregano). Perhaps even better than the pizzas are the fried starters, including miniature calzones and potato croquettes. Be sure to make a reservation.

At this small, family-run bakery-grocery in Monteverde, it’s not uncommon to see someone in line at the register with a piece of pizza in one hand and a jug of laundry detergent in the other. That piece of pizza is probably pizza rossa, and Beti makes one of the best in the city. Cooked on a sheet pan with oil, the bottom fries slightly, encasing a fleecy interior topped with a rich, concentrated tomato sauce. A piece big enough to quash one’s appetite for lunch costs about €2.

An old bakery tucked behind the Piazza Trilussa in nightlife-heavy Trastevere, La Renella leads a double life. During the day, people trickle in to buy their daily bread or a sandwich for lunch. At night, and especially on weekends, it’s packed until the 2 a.m. closing time, as crowds of Italians and tourists alike grab a snack after drinking in one of the numerous bars in the area. Crunchy and pleasantly greasy, Renella’s pizza has an old-fashioned flavor that works best with simple toppings like potatoes, tomatoes, and squash blossoms. The Roman equivalent of a dollar slice, but better.

Ai Marmi is the quintessential Roman pizzeria. Nicknamed “the Morgue” by locals because of its marble interior, this institution still looks lively after over 80 years. Hundreds of paper-thin pies emerge from the wood oven six nights a week, along with countless supplì, filetti di baccalà, and bottles of Peroni Nastro Azzurro. Unfussy and reliable, this pizza is meant to be eaten and not admired. On weekends, the line can be long but people are expertly shepherded through it by an unchanging crew of waiters with faces that could be busts in the Capitoline Museums.

Mordi e Vai, with its meat panini, may draw the biggest crowds at the Testaccio Market, but Casa Manco, opened in 2017 by husband-and-wife team Andrea Salabé and Paola Manco, isn’t far behind. Beautiful pizza alla pala are served starting at 8:30 in the morning every day the market is open. The crust is well-risen and thoroughly baked, giving it a distinct bread flavor; it’s topped with ingredients like a scattering of sesame seeds or a baroque mix of mortadella, ricotta, honey, and orange. Get a slice (or two) to munch on while shopping.

A sit-down pizzeria from the Roscioli family empire. Emma serves what might be the best Roman-style pie in the city. Still cracker-thin, the crust has a much more developed flavor than most: It’s a distinct component, rather than a mere vehicle for toppings. Which, at Emma, are always excellent; the cured meats and cheeses are sourced from the Roscioli salumeria. The simple margherita vacca rossa, with 30-month aged parmigiano, is a steal at €9. Be sure to start the meal with supplì and bruschetta — both are exceptional.

This old-school bakery in Testaccio is famous for its pizza bianca: bubbly and crisp, yet still tender on the outside, and dressed with enough oil to leave fingers shiny. Have the guy behind the counter fill a piece with mortadella for another Roman classic, pizza con la mortazza. The foccacia and salumi-stuffed pizza are also worth trying.

Open in Testaccio since 1936, Il Grottino is a good, timeless pizzeria. Always raucous, the pizzas here have a sturdiness that the more famous Da Remo around the corner lacks. To start, order solid renditions of classic fried snacks like supplì or potato croquettes. Expect a wait on weekends, especially after a soccer game.

Open since 1929, Panella is one of those rare places that does everything well: coffee, pastries, cocktails, aperitivo, and pizza. A bakery at heart, Panella’s pizza is old-fashioned, meaning it’s got a thin and mild crust, lightly and simply dressed. Some of the best iterations include the carrot and zucchini, or the shatteringly crisp bianca stuffed with mortadella. Whatever the flavor, the pizza is best enjoyed at one of the tables outside with a glass of wine.

Trapizzino founder Stefano Callegari’s second pizzeria, Sbanco is the most centrally located, a 15-minute walk south of San Giovanni in Laterano. The pizzas are quite similar to those at Sforno, with rotating selections like a decadent pizza alla carbonara and Callegari’s famous Greenwich (with Stilton and a port reduction), as well as supplì and some well-crafted meat dishes. There’s also a bravura selection of craft beers and fermentation tanks furnished by Sbanco’s partner Birrificio del Ducato.

Angelo e Simonetta is a little out of the way, but it’s worth it for one of the best pieces of pizza in Rome. This restaurant originated the long-fermented teglia romana dough that rises up out of the pan while remaining crisp on the bottom. The crust here isn’t quite as risen as at newer places, but it’s robust and flavorful enough to stand up to the constantly rotating toppings, which include carrots and guanciale, eggplant and pesto, and a thousand others. What’s really great about Angelo e Simonetta is that, despite its fame and creativity, it’s still primarily a neighborhood pizzeria, more likely to be full of kids after soccer practice than packs of Americans on food tours.

Optimum pizza al taglio in Centocelle, a working-class neighborhood in the east of Rome that’s slowly filling in with new bars and restaurants. The realized dream of Mirko Rizzo, a former student of Gabriele Bonci, Pommidoro serves up marvelous, pan-baked pizza with carefully crafted toppings like the carbonara, which takes the already-good pizza bianca and adds crisp guanciale and a cream of eggs, pecorino, and pepper after the base exits the oven, creating a wonderful contrast of textures and temperatures. Save some room for the excellent fritti, including supplì of lentils and cotechino and fried meatballs.

Sforno was the first sit-down pizzeria from Trapizzino’s Stefano Callegari. Located way out near the Cinecittà studios in Tuscolana, Sforno specializes in risen, Neapolitan-style whole pizzas. The most famous is the cacio e pepe — baked with crushed ice and later topped with what seems like a whole wheel of grated pecorino. Delicious, but heavy, and therefore best ordered as an antipasto to be split among friends, along with a stellar, uber-Roman supplì of porchetta, Frascati wine, and wild fennel.