When chef John Denison first visited Paris, one of his first stops was Clown Bar, the whimsically tiled 11th Arrondissement restaurant near the Cirque d’Hiver that played a major role in reshaping the French dining scene a decade ago.
Once inside, past the sidewalk’s ever-present cigarette smoke, Denison ordered a beef Bourguignon that highlighted meat three ways — grilled, confit and braised — only finished here by chef Sota Atsumi with a shockingly light sauce.