Paris-trained chef John Denison launches Le Clown, Portland pop-up with duck a l’orange, ‘foie-co tacos’

Several dishes making up the full duck service from Le Clown, a new pop-up from former St. Jack chef John Denison.

Le Clown, a new restaurant residency from John and Maddie Denison, will offer duck service, foie-co tacos, grapefruit parfaits and more at the Lil' Dame space in Northeast Portland.Courtesy of Le Clown

When chef John Denison first visited Paris, one of his first stops was Clown Bar, the whimsically tiled 11th Arrondissement restaurant near the Cirque d’Hiver that played a major role in reshaping the French dining scene a decade ago.

Once inside, past the sidewalk’s ever-present cigarette smoke, Denison ordered a beef Bourguignon that highlighted meat three ways — grilled, confit and braised — only finished here by chef Sota Atsumi with a shockingly light sauce.

If you purchase a product or register for an account through a link on our site, we may receive compensation. By using this site, you consent to our User Agreement and agree that your clicks, interactions, and personal information may be collected, recorded, and/or stored by us and social media and other third-party partners in accordance with our Privacy Policy.