Beyond the military contexts associated with boodle fights, kamayan feasts deserve their rightful place in our Filipino culture: one grounded in brotherhood, generosity and downright delicious food. While the spread will differ from table to table, some elements remain essential: banana leaves (or whatever large, sturdy leaves are locally available); rice, be it plain, garlic, Java, or coconut; grilled seafood like shrimp, squid, or fish; meat like barbecue or a whole roasted lechon; plus fresh fruits and sawsawan.

Lay down your banana leaves and get ready to (literally) rub elbows with your nearest and dearest. Keep reading for Boodle Fight memories and ideas from our four featured chefs.

See also: World pizza of the year 2023 is from the Philippines: Which local pizzerias made it to the top 100?

What do you love most about boodle fights/kamayan?

The sense of connection and joy it brings. It fosters a lively atmosphere where family and friends gather, sharing laughter, stories and delicious food.

How would you put your own personal touch or spin on a boodle fight/kamayan?

I would incorporate special dishes that hold sentimental value to my family. For example, my grandmother’s recipe for adobo or my aunt’s signature pancit. I would also add a creative and colourful tablescape, beautiful platters and a festive spread with handmade coconut shell serving bowls and carved platters to add charm to my table.

What is your most memorable boodle fight/kamayan experience?

Growing up, having a boodle fight was always a part of our family get-togethers. It has been a part of our Sunday family gatherings that have passed on through generations. Memories around the boodle fight table with lots of good food and laughter are the best ones.

Cebu lechon

1. Clean a whole pig (25-40 pounds) thoroughly. Pat it dry with paper towels.
2. Rub salt and pepper all over the pig, including the cavity.
3. Fill the cavity with minced garlic, crushed lemongrass, chopped onions and bay leaves.
4. Secure the pig by closing the cavity with kitchen twine.
5. Make the marinade by combining soy sauce and vinegar in a bowl. Mix well.
6. Generously brush the marinade all over the pig
7. Let the pig marinate overnight in the refrigerator.
8. Preheat your oven to 325°F (165°C).
9. Place the marinated pig in a rotisserie or oven
10. Roast the pig in the preheated oven for approximately 5-6 hours, depending on the size of the pig.
11. Baste the pig with cooking oil and water every 30 minutes to keep it moist and ensure crispy skin.
12. Increase the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C) during the last hour to achieve crunchy skin.
13. Once the skin has turned golden, remove the pig from the oven and let it rest.

Note: Cooking time may vary depending on the size of the pig. Make sure to monitor the pig closely as it roasts to prevent it from burning or overcooking.

Read more: Chef Happy Ongpauco-Tiu shares 3 must-try holiday recipes 

What do you love most about boodle fights/kamayan?

Boodle fights are a distinct way to gather people over food, create memorable moments and engage with one another. It’s how we eat at our family farm. I love how relaxed it is, and how I’m surrounded by family, friends, and good food. Somehow, it reminds me to slow down, enjoy the scenery, and spend time with my loved ones in the simplest way.

How would you put your own personal spin on a boodle fight/kamayan?

I always add my favourite condiments like pickled mango, sweet-spicy bagoong, atchara made from nata de coco, atchara ampalaya and atchara papaya, including variants most people aren’t familiar with. Presentation-wise, I like making it colourful by adding fruits like ripe or green mango to complement the tomatoes, highlighting the char of the grilled dishes, and stand out against the white rice. I sometimes add flowers just to add some surprising, natural elements, too. I don’t want to reinvent the wheel too much, the overall vibe should be fun.

Ultra-tender inihaw na liempo

1. Marinate country-style spare ribs with peppercorns, salt, chopped garlic and fish sauce for 30 minutes.
2. Put it in a pot with fresh coconut water, enough to submerge the pork, and boil for at least 1 hour or until tender.
3. Grill the pork over hot coals.
4. Serve and enjoy! Best served with your choice of dipping sauce of soy sauce, red chilli, calamansi, vinegar, chopped onions and a little sugar. For sidings, I personally love to eat this with my atchara selection and pickled mango.

See also: Meet the chef: Florabel Co-Yatco

What do you love most about boodle fights/kamayan?

I love that it’s truly Filipino. It always reminds me of after-surf feasts or meals. It’s so natural, so fun, so festive—you’re one with nature, and everyone is just so happy. And when you eat with your hands, it’s just so sensual.

What is your most memorable boodle fight/kamayan experience?

We were invited to San Sebastian Gastronomika, a very prestigious gastronomic convention. Chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants each presented their dishes in a fine dining setting, but we went across the grain: we showed them our true Filipino colours, and brought the boodle fight to Spain. We rolled out a big table and invited everyone to go up on stage and eat with us—no kubiertos, eat with your hands. That was a feast to remember.

How would you put your own personal spin on a boodle fight/kamayan?

My style would be native, working with what’s around me: coconuts, bamboo, the trunk of a tree, anything organic. It still has to be rooted in Mother Nature. A boodle fight is so raw and so real, I wouldn’t use anything that would disrupt that feel. For drinks, the sky’s the limit, really. Maybe I’ll make a watermelon buko tropical punch, and add some rum with a little bit of basil or kaffir lime.

Inihaw na pusit with salted egg chicharon stuffing

1. Marinate the squid in fish sauce, calamansi, and coconut vinegar.
2. Stuff the squid with raw onions, tomatoes, salted eggs, crab fat, crushed chicharon, fish sauce, sugar, lemon grass and basil.
3. Grill the stuffed squid and baste with annatto oil.

In case you missed it: Chef JP Anglo of Sarsa on the lessons he learned during the pandemic

How do you make your boodle feast spreads unique?

In my boodle feasts, I am mindful of including dishes from different provinces or regions so guests feel like they have travelled through the entire Philippines. I try to make the spread look artful by using different ingredients as props (all edible!) and local decor. I enjoy adding special touches like spelling out “KAIN NA” using Java rice or “KAUN TA” when in Visayas, it’s so nice to see the reactions of guests when they see the spread. My boodle feast also stands out because it always includes a lechon.

I understand that eating with your bare hands is not appetising to everyone, so as an alternative, I will lay local basket plates lined with banana leaves and wooden utensils, making the dining experience still feel very Filipino.

What is your most memorable boodle fight/kamayan experience?

One of the most memorable guests I hosted for my boodle feast was The Hungry Tourist. He was already all smiles as he entered the dining room but when he saw what was on the table—lechon, isaw, chicharon, shrimp, green mangoes, bagoong, etc— he went from happy to ecstatic. Thousands liked his post right away, and by the end of the evening there were no less than 50 thousand likes from around the world it was unbelievable. What a great way to show the world a part of our culinary heritage. 

Sisig

1. Boil pigs’ ears and cheeks with laurel leaves, peppercorn and salt. Once soft, take it out of the pot and dry for a few hours.
2. For a smoky taste, lightly grill the meat. For easier cooking, you can opt to fry.
3. Once cool enough to handle, chop the meat to 1⁄2 inch pieces or smaller.
4. In another pan, sautée garlic, onion and long green chillies. Add chopped pork and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Option: Just before serving, you can add mayonnaise and/or all-purpose cream.
6. Serve with calamansi on the side.

NOW READ

Pepita’s Kitchen by Dedet dela Fuente is the first Filipino restaurant on the Las Vegas strip

The ultimate primer to The Balmori Chef’s Table at Rockwell

An elevated Finestra Italian Steakhouse awaits with its new chef, Andrea Spagoni at the helm