Becco

It might sound lowbrow, the idea of getting a “symphony” of three unlimited pastas (served by waiters who rove around with big bowls of each) plus an appetizer (a choice of Caesar salad or antipasto misto) for a buffet price. But at Becco, a boisterous restaurant from Lidia and Joe Bastianich, it manages to be delightful, good fun, and fast. The pastas are simple classics — fusilli Bolognese, mushroom ravioli, pappardelle tomato and basil — and there’s an à la carte menu for traditionalists. Also nice: the very affordable wine list, and the included pre-pasta bites like slices of octopus, olives, and the bread basket with good grissini.